Thursday, September 13, 2012

Wednesday and Thursday in Guadalajara and TlaquePaque

Fascinating day, yesterday. So far I've spent a lot of time in the historic downtown area of GDL and there is a lot to see. From the cathedral--which dates from 1541 but has been damaged by fire and earthquake on several occasions--not nearly as spectacular as that in Mazatlan, which is much newer, built beginning in 1875 and recently refurbished, to the official buildings housing the state legislature and the city government. All this on Tuesday. A long day.

So I reserved a space on a tour of Lake Chapala for yesterday. I was picked up at the hostel by a small van which then went around to several hotels to pick up passengers. We were then taken to a rendezvous with the main, large vans to go to either Lake Chapala or to the Tequila area which is where the drink of that name is produced. After a few minutes, we were told that only a few people wanted to go to Lake Chapala and they couldn't go. Instead we could choose either the Tequila tour or the towns of Tonala and Tlaquepaque, both known for handicraft.

Three of us who were not interested in the Tequila tour chose the T/T route. A gentleman in a private car was designated our tour guide. After we left the area, he pulled over and recommended that we just do a general GDL tour and then go to Tlaquepaque. At this point, if I had been smarter, I would have just asked for my money and being returned to my hostel--but I went along to get along.

It was not a good experience. The guide was quite knowledgeable and took us to half a dozen famous statues along with two churches, then back to the old town center that I had already well covered. After three hours of this we left to Tlaquepaque. By now the older couple who were with me--and for whom this was all new--were hungry. The guide steered us to the most expensive restaurant and then abandoned us for the next two hours. I wandered off looking for subjects to photograph and, in doing so, found some very nice restaurants that seemed to serve quite good food for about 1/2 the price.

He finally dropped me back at my hostel. Frankly this was not one of the better days. This morning, I narrated my sad story to the clerk at the hostel--which had recommended the tour. They gave me the option of taking the Chapala tour at no charge, if I wanted, or they would refund their kickback from the tour company. So that's the plan for tomorrow. We'll see what happens.



In contrast today has been excellent. I set out to visit the one cultural place that I had missed. Of course, I missed a lot, but really getting it all would take months. That one place was the Regional Museum of Guadalajara. It is an enormous structure with a large paleontology collection, archeological exhibits as well as much more.

Quite enlightening was the exhibit on early textiles. How the various indigenous peoples used dyes made from plants and animals to create some of the most wonderful colors I have seen. For example, the deep, gorgeous purple came from dyes made from the sea conch. In the explanation, only sea conchs from certain coasts were useful as in other areas the conchs were too small. Since they had to be transported over large distances, it was too costly to use the smaller conchs that wouldn't produce enough dye.  There were other displays of the deep reds and greens along with the plants from which those colors had come.

I was able to spend two and a half delightful hours in this museum before moving on the cathedral for a second (Actually third, but yesterday doesn't count. LOL) visit. Got some additional photos.

Of course, my not so positive experience of yesterday provided more column-inch copy. I'm reminded why negative news stories are so much more prominent in the media. I can't entirely blame them, if I succumb to this myself. LOL.

Looking forward to a better tomorrow.

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